Betaab Valley
The one everybody photographs, and it earns it. A short drive from town, then a flat walk along the river.
Pahalgam
Three river valleys, a pine forest that goes on for hours, and the best walking in Kashmir.
- Elevation
- 2,130 m
- From Srinagar
- 90 km
- Drive time
- 2 hr 30
Kashmir · The short version
Pahalgam sits where two rivers meet, and the interesting parts are all up the side valleys rather than in the town itself. Betaab, Aru and Chandanwari each run off in a different direction, and each is worth half a day.
It is the greenest and gentlest of the Kashmir stops — lower than Gulmarg, warmer, and much better for anyone who wants to walk. It is also the base camp for the Amarnath yatra in July and August, which is worth knowing about before you book those weeks.
What to see
The places worth the drive.
Aru Valley
Twelve kilometres up a rough road to a shepherd village and the start of the Lidderwat trek. Quieter than Betaab and prettier, in our view.
Baisaran
A meadow completely ringed by pine, reached on foot or horseback. Go on your own legs if you can — the pony touts are relentless.
Chandanwari & the Lidder
Sixteen kilometres up towards the snow bridge, and the trailhead for Amarnath. Snow here into early summer.
When to go
Twelve months, honestly labelled.
May, June, September and October are the sweet spots. July and August bring the Amarnath pilgrimage, which means crowds and traffic restrictions on the upper roads.
- Jan
Snow, very quiet
- Feb
Open
- Mar
Open
- Apr
Open
- May
Green and clear
- Jun
Peak
- Jul
Yatra season — busy
- Aug
Yatra season — busy
- Sep
Peak
- Oct
Autumn colour
- Nov
Open
- Dec
Open
- Peak
- Open
- Patchy
- Usually shut
River walks
The Lidder path from town runs for miles and needs no guide, no permit and no pony.
Trout fishing
The Lidder is a working trout river. Permits are limited and have to be arranged in advance — tell us early.
Trekking
Aru is the start of the Kolahoi and Tarsar Marsar routes. Anything from a day walk to a week.
Trips that include Pahalgam
Starting points, not fixed menus.
Things people ask us
about Pahalgam.
- What is the Amarnath yatra?
- A major Hindu pilgrimage running roughly July into August, with Pahalgam as one of two base camps. The town is full, security is tight and the Chandanwari road is often restricted. Beautiful to witness, hard to sightsee around.
- Is it good for older travellers?
- The best of the three, yes. It's the lowest stop, the walking is flat, and you can see Betaab and the river without climbing anything.
Keep going
Most trips combine two or three.
Zoji La · 3,528 m
The journey of a thousand miles begins here.
Or, more precisely, 434 kilometres of it — Srinagar to Leh, over the pass that decides whether the road is open at all.