D01
Arrive Srinagar
Srinagar · 1,585 mMet at the airport and driven to the Boulevard — about thirty minutes. The rest of the day is deliberately empty: a shikara out onto Dal Lake at sunset, and nothing else scheduled.
Meals: Dinner

Drive in over Zoji La and let the road do the acclimatising.
The plan
The best way into Ladakh and, in our view, one of the great drives anywhere. You climb from 1,585 m at Srinagar to 3,500 m at Leh across two days, which acclimatises you for free.
Runs mid-May to late September only — Zoji La is closed by snow outside that window and nobody can open it for you.
D01
Met at the airport and driven to the Boulevard — about thirty minutes. The rest of the day is deliberately empty: a shikara out onto Dal Lake at sunset, and nothing else scheduled.
Meals: Dinner
D02
The big driving day. Sonamarg, then the climb to Zoji La at 3,528 m — a single-track shelf road cut into the mountainside — and down to Kargil for the night.
Meals: Breakfast, dinner
D03
Over Namika La and Fotu La, past the Lamayuru moonscape and Magnetic Hill. You arrive in Leh having climbed gradually for two days, which is the whole point of driving in.
Meals: Breakfast, dinner
D04
Still low and slow. Leh Palace and Shanti Stupa in the afternoon, both short. Thiksey at dawn for the morning prayers if you're feeling well — we decide on the morning, not in advance.
Meals: Breakfast, dinner
D05
Up over Khardung La at 5,359 m — twenty minutes at the top, no longer — then down into the Nubra valley. Bactrian camels on the Hunder dunes in the afternoon. Oxygen is carried in the vehicle.
Meals: Breakfast, dinner
D06
The Balti village near the line of control, only open to visitors since 2010. Apricot orchards, a different language and a genuinely different culture. Back to Nubra or straight on to Pangong.
Meals: Breakfast, dinner
D07
The direct road along the Shyok river rather than back through Leh. Overnight in a tented camp on the shore — basic, cold, and worth it for the light on the water at dawn.
Meals: Breakfast, dinner
D08
Leh flights leave early and are the first to be cancelled in bad weather. We build a buffer into every Ladakh itinerary and will not book you a same-day onward connection.
Meals: Breakfast
1 night · Srinagar
Houseboat on Dal Lake
1 night · Kargil
Simple hotel — the weakest night, and we say so
2 nights · Leh
Boutique guesthouse in the old town
2 nights · Nubra
Fixed camp at Hunder, homestay at Turtuk
1 night · Pangong
Tented camp on the shore
Photos

Tour amenities
Met at arrivals and driven back for departure. No hunting for a prepaid taxi counter.
Your own cab for the whole trip, not a shared coach. Stop where you like, for as long as you like.
Hotels and houseboats we inspect ourselves at the start of every season.
Both meals at your stay. Lunches are left free so you can eat where the day takes you.
An hour on the water at sunset, included rather than sold to you on the day.
Garden tickets, Gondola bookings and local vehicle charges handled in advance.
A real person on WhatsApp for the whole trip, not a ticketing system.
Cylinders carried in the vehicle on every high-pass day, and a doctor on call in Leh.
Nubra, Pangong and the Shyok road all need them. We file them; you send ID a few days ahead.
Same trip, different length

Zoji La · 3,528 m
Or, more precisely, 434 kilometres of it — Srinagar to Leh, over the pass that decides whether the road is open at all.